Madrid has earned the nickname mini-Miami- a city where art, food, and nightlife run late and loud. Since Art Circuits usually has its home in Miami, this first European guide felt like the right place to connect the dots. Here’s 72 hours in Madrid the way I’d pass it on to a friend: century-old cafés, neighbourhood tapas joints, and the kind of art spaces you’d only find if someone told you about them.
Day One
Breakfast
El Riojano
Don’t be alarmed by its proximity to tourist haven, Puerta del Sol, this pastry shop has been around since 1855 and is a Madrid staple. You’ll still see the tables filled with elegant Spanish couples who have been going there for decades, enjoying their favourite breakfast. The décor, including the original marble flooring and brass fixtures, hasn’t changed since they first opened their door 170 years ago and is a welcome pause from the ever-evolving café culture.
Do
The Neomudéjar Museum
If you are looking to skip the never-ending queues for El Prado and Reina Sofia, I would suggest heading to the Neomudéjar Museum, a centre for avant-garde art just south of the Retiro Park. This underground gallery is housed in an old railway interpretation station, showcasing video art, installations, as well as workshops. Once you’ve got your fill of culture, head to their courtyard at the entrance and have a drink surrounded by lush greenery and mismatched garden furniture.
Lunch
Hermanos Vinagre
A bit of a cult here in Madrid (they’ve even recently had a collab with Uniqlo), are popular for a reason. Head here for an ice-cold beer or vermouth, accompanied by some gildas (skewers with olives, anchovies, pickled peppers) and their humorous serving of Ensaladilla Rusa (Russian salad), presented in a Russian Matryoshka doll. The menu differs slightly at each site, but you’ll leave happy and pickled from either site - guaranteed.
Do
Salamanca neighbourhood
Head to the Salamanca neighbourhood just north of the Retiro Park for some unique shopping from independent Spanish designers. Make a pit stop at Mercado de La Paz, the perfect spot to pick up your Jamon Serrano and tinned anchovies to bring back home.
Dinner
Puerto Lagasca
On one of my favourite streets of Madrid, Puerto Lagasca offers some standout dishes that dreams are made of, even your Spanish friends will be impressed. The go-to is the grilled Canarian Majorero cheese with honey, as well as the traditional Iberian pork cheek. Whatever you do, don’t forget to reserve a (huge) slice of their Mille Feuille, because once it’s gone – it’s gone.
Day Two
Breakfast
Chocolateria 1902
Take a deep-dive into Spanish breakfast culture (and avoid the San Gines tourist-trap), by visiting the bustling family-owned Chocolateria that’s been around since 1902. Their hot chocolate recipe has been passed down for five generations and is the perfect start to your day, alongside a plate of their freshly fried churros.
Do
Matadero
Located in Madrid’s former meatpacking district, it’s now the city’s centre for contemporary creation, housing temporary exhibitions, cinemas, and a dance centre. It’s well-worth a visit just for the architecture followed by a stroll along the Manzanares river.
Lunch
La Maruca
Some people (me) would argue one of the best tortilla in Madrid. Avoid the queues for Casa Dani (made famous on Somebody Feed Phil), and head to one of La Maruca’s three restaurants. The menu is a contemporary take on primarily Cantabrian dishes, with the Castellana and Lopez de Hoyo sites boasting spacious terraces.
Aperitivo
Crudo
The perfect spot for natural wines and impressive cheese platters. Founded by ‘fromagelier’, Annet Guevara, a true cheese connoisseur and afficionado, will guide you through her impressive cheese list, which changes daily. While you’re at it, ask her to pair it with her favourite wines. The interiors have a soft yellow tone throughout, no-doubt inspired by one of the cheeses you’re about to try. Crudo also serves the gooiest cheese toasties, so suggest buying a bottle of wine, and heading down to the Retiro park.
Dinner
La Fisna Wine Bar
This small rustic wine bar and bottle shop is serving one of Madrid’s most impressive wine lists. While the number of wines they have can be overwhelming, their very knowledgeable staff are happy to help. Best part? If you love your wine, you can buy a bottle and take home.
Day Three
Breakfast
Ora Contemporary (Carabanchel)
Wake up early and check out the Carabanchel district, the centre of a large creative and bohemian movement, boasting over 130 artist studios and workshops. Visit Ora Contemporary to start your day, with high-grade coffee, matcha and home-made treats. Ora Contemporary features a rotation of artist residencies, art talks, and even yoga sessions and make sure to catch owner, Ana Barrenechea, as she chats you through her current residencies.
Do
Faro de Moncloa / Moncloa Lighthouse
Head here for the best panoramic views of the city, a former transmission tower turned observation deck at 92m high. Tickets can be bought on-site.
Lunch
La Esperanza
In the heart of the Literary Quarters, a perfect tapas bar filled with quirky and retro furniture inspired by the 70s. The clientele spans generations, all happily sipping on a glass of vermouth together. The menu offers half portions, a welcome sight when you see the size of the menu, but don’t forget to order a Bomba de Barceloneta (or two) - thank me later.
Do
Barrio de las Letras / Literary Quarters
Have a stroll around the Barrio de las Letras, or The Literary Quarters, home to the great writers of the Golden Age of Spanish literature (like Cervantes).
Dinner
Cerveceria Los Gatos
The owner, from La Palma Island in the Canaries, has spearheaded this now iconic little tavern since 1987, supplying madrileños and travellers alike with cold beer and anchovies. Come for the famous tostadas (on display by the bar), stay for the history and the curious bric-à-brac on the wall (and see if you can guess which table the Rolling Stones usually sit at).
